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Fashion, class and race: time for you to weigh in

CVK
kimoraSorry folks, this is gonna be a long one because it’s important. If you’d like to weigh in after reading this post, I’d encourage you to post your thoughts on Almost Girl’s blog. Hopefully it’ll spark some important conversations there so we’re not just talking about it here on MMW.

I blogged on Friday about the ridiculous ways in which the fashion industry exoticizes and thereby dehumanizes women of color (see original post here), citing as examples a New York Times fashion writer who compared Kimora Lee Simmons to Masai warrior and geisha, and the way a Prada spokesperson described the all-Asian cast in the new Miu Miu campaign as “warrior dolls.”

I suggested that if these companies had more diverse staffs, they might be more conscious of how these statements could be construed as racist. I also pointed to the Cristal/Jay-Z flap as an example of this.

After the post went up, I emailed a couple of fashion bloggers whose blogs I read regularly to introduce myself and let them know about the post. After all, it’s not often that I get to write about fashion on this blog.

One of the bloggers, Julie Fredrickson who writes the blog Almost Girl, emailed me a long response, which she has also posted on her blog. You can read it here.

I have to say that I was really disappointed. Instead of addressing the race issue at all, she immediately steered the conversation towards class, arguing that this was a much bigger factor. Of course class is a factor, but you can’t honestly have spent any time in the fashion industry and tell me that the lack of diversity isn’t a problem. I’ve worked in both the mainstream and independent magazine worlds (Hearst magazines and Surface magazine, respectively) and believe me, I’ve seen the problem up close.

It was also disappointing to read that she was “turned off” by “several hyperbolic comments about white men raping and pillaging colored women for centuries” and that she thought “people stay as far away from race as possible in this country” because “the dialogue turns vitriolic so quickly.” It’s too bad she overlooked the many important points made by MMW readers in the comments, choosing only to focus on what she considered to be “vitriolic” — what I would consider an honest discussion of the history of miscegenation.

I’m pretty disturbed by her comments in reaction to the Cristal/Jay-Z controversy:

I imagine that these luxury brands view hip hop culture like Burberry views the chavs, as one clearly one of over indulgence by a group of people that don’t necessarily understand the social signaling implied by a luxury brand… However, my major problem with these types of cultures is there is an unfortunate tendency to emulate this type of consumption regardless of your means to do so… and it is due in no small part to the bling culture we are fed via MTV or BET.

more after the jump…


Especially given that she then quotes a sneaker designer who said in an interview (without citing any sources, of course) that:

…the # 1 athletic shoe franchises in America all have their biggest sales spike on the first of the month when Public Assistance and Welfare come in…

What’s the difference between say, Carrie Bradshaw on “Sex and the City” owning $400,000 worth of shoes but not having a penny in her savings account, and an inner city teenager who makes minimum wage but is wearing $200 Nikes?

(Yes, I know that Bradshaw isn’t a real person, but I know plenty of women just like her who run up massive amounts of debt in an attempt to live the New York City life they think they’re entitled to but can’t actually afford: designer clothes, an apartment in a hip neighborhood, fancy restaurants, expensive bars, etc.)

There is no difference. People like to perpetuate this notion that hip hop culture is unusually materialistic, but have you looked at pop culture lately? All American pop culture is pushing materialism and consumerism. Hip hop is just one tiny piece of a much larger puzzle. Americans at all income levels are stretched beyond their means in an attempt to keep up with the Joneses. Why do you think the mortgage industry came up with adjustable-rate mortgages? To let people buy more house than they can afford.

I find it interesting that Julie chooses to single out inner city teens and hip hop heads (let’s face it, the latter is usually code for black and Latino folks) for their moral failures in caving in to “bling culture.” It sounds very Cosby-esque to me.

But what do you all think? Since we discuss race so much on this blog but no such discussions are happening on fashion blogs, I’d encourage you to post your thoughts on Almost Girl’s blog. Hopefully it’ll spark some important conversations there with her audience. And um, let’s keep the “vitriol” to a minimum. ;)

Trackbacks & Pings

  1. real men are not » Blog Archive » 1-and-2-and-1-and-2 and heel-toe, heel-toe: i’m a vitriol spewin’ angry race junkie! on 12 Jul 2006 at 5:03 pm

    […] I decided to post about this because what you just saw here, dear readers, I think happens frequently in discussions of race/skin color/diversity. Edit##: Also check out Carmen’s response to Almost Girl’s reply here. […]

  2. Mixed Media Watch - tracking media representations of mixed people on 17 Jul 2006 at 10:30 am

    […] RANT The coded ways people talk about race without appearing to talk about race is the subject of Carmen’s rant today. For more on this topic, check out Ally Work’s post with excerpts from Uprooting Racism: How White People Can Work for Racial Justice by Paul Kivel. To see the correspondence that sparked this rant, see here, here, here and here. […]

  3. ATR 32 - July 17, 2006 - Voicemail 206-203-3983 - addictedtorace@gmail.com at Addicted to Race on 05 Aug 2006 at 11:09 am

    […] RANT The coded ways people talk about race without appearing to talk about race is the subject of Carmen’s rant today. For more on this topic, check out Ally Work’s post with excerpts from Uprooting Racism: How White People Can Work for Racial Justice by Paul Kivel. To see the correspondence that sparked this rant, see here, here, here and here. […]

Comments

  1. Julie wrote:

    “What’s the difference between say, Carrie Bradshaw on “Sex and the City” owning $400,000 worth of shoes but not having a penny in her savings account, and an inner city teenager who makes minimum wage but is wearing $200 Nikes?”

    There isn’t a damn bit of difference and that is the sad thing. But I was referencing in particular young children and people with families that instead choose to spend their money on these goods rather than education or food. Cary Bradshaw is a grown woman with her own income and no dependents. She is free to spend as irresponsibly as she likes.

    If you are a child you are most likely spending your parents money or money that isn’t yours because I don’t know any 12 year old girls that make enough to afford an iPod and expensive clothes on a regular basis.

    If you are an adult with dependents there is no excuse to spend that on sneakers. As Ari says this kind of consumption is just one addiction over another.

    Fashion has drastic race issues but so does the rest of America and it is a travesty. This of course does not excuse it. But because fashion is an industry the fetishes ALL women it is easier to single out the instances in which it does so to women of color.

    You want to make a change? Don’t make it a race issue-make it a women issue. Fashion needs to change regardless of who it dehumanizes.

  2. Julie wrote:

    Also Ari is more than a sneaker designer, he is a streetwear icon.

    And he understands but of that particular culture’s darker side.

    The reference is here: http://www.kixandthecity.com/2006/05/24/katc-feature-keeping-it-on-the-go-with-ari-and-his-beautifully-complex-menthol-10s/

  3. mr guy wrote:

    Eh, a white guy selling expensive sneakers that look like Newports, right down to the pakaging….yep.Don’t know what to say :|

  4. Gandalph Mantooth wrote:

    Julie

    How do you know that these people have families? I mean, you’re talking generalities and not observations of people on the street you’ve made? If you are talking from observations, you’ve seen enough to know that the problem of teens with kids spending out of their means?

    Why would NOT making it a race issue make things any better? Hey, us dudes wear clothes too!

  5. the joy princess wrote:

    “……several hyperbolic comments about white men raping and pillaging colored women for centuries

    Umm, did she really say ‘colored women’ ? lol

    WHY are people still so afraid of talking about race? I don’t get it.

  6. brad wrote:

    Here’s my reply to Almost Girl:
    I think you don’t really understand Carmen’s thoughts on race or choose to ignore them. There IS a stead stream tired racial cliches that are used to describe women of color: Latinas are “hot” or “spicy”; Asians are “China dolls” or geishas; or African-Americans are “streetwise”, “warriors,” “jungle this or that.”
    How can anyone in 2006 consider a black, Native American Asian, Latina, or mixed-race woman exotic? Hello, they’ve been in America for CENTURIES! Kimora Lee was born in the USA? Why the hell is she being compared to Masai warrior woman or a geisha (high class prostitute!)? If I saw Kimora on the street my mind wouldn’t think “Wow! What a strange looking woman?” Does she strike you as strange looking? I don’t see a third eye on her or sporting a long, bushy tail. Now that would be exotic!

    Moreover, our entire society is obsessed with overconsumption of goods and has been for years. But, you focussed your attention on impoverished people of color and their purchases, as if the poor are an entire reflection of all people of color. A lot of brown, red, and yellow folks are middle class, upper class, and some quite wealthy. Don’t you understand how bigoted it is to automatically jump to the iconic image of poor blacks and then point out their faults?

    Carmen focused on the plight of all of women of color and their lack of representation IN the fashion media and the resulting insentivity. You skirted around this issue because you didn’t like dealing with the icky issues of race. That’s a cop out. Recently, New York’s equal opportunity agency began investigating the hiring practices of top ad agencies. The same should be done with the magazine industry.

    Pretending that racism doesn’t exist is only something that a Caucasian American can do since racism doesn’t affect her/him in general. You give the example of the messenger. That’s nice of you. But you ignore the fact that the people in media who shape popular culture are happily ignorant of 40% of the U.S.

    Race matters in the USA. There’s an elephant in the room; ignoring it only increase the chance of it stepping on your foot. Do you really think Michael Jackson would have carved his face and bleached his skin if it weren’t for a culture that devalued and demonized non-Caucasian features? Jackson is the posterchild for self-hatred.

  7. the joy princess wrote:

    Rock on, Brad!

  8. Marsha wrote:

    Yeah, shout out to Brad! I don’t think Julie got Carmen’s post at all. Carmen’s post was about how ridiculous the fashion industry treats minority women and plays up on stereotypes. Being from St. Louis myself, I find it both ridicuous and stupid that Kimora and myself are always called *exotic*. (OK, whatever- if you think any woman with a little pigment in her skin is “exotic” you need to get out more…) Oh, let’s not even go there with the fashion industry’s attempt to culturally appropriate anything from Asian, Africa, or South America. If I see another Buddha necklace on another chick who looks at it like a “cool” fashion accessory, I’m going to puke.

  9. gatamala wrote:

    Thank you Brad!!

    You know what Julie, my response is going to be chock full of vitriol (funny how it’s ok to spew such venom towards poor Black & Latin people)! Vitriol notwithstanding, read my words very carefully.

    “These types of cultures” - “these types” are American culture. Your type of industry has hijacked theses type of cultures for “inspiration” & corporate gain & given mad swag to members of these types of cultures. You are a self-described fashionista, you should know better. Why don’t YOU do some research on all fashion labels that have been inspired by these types of cultures.

    1) Start with Pat Fields putting Carrie (necklace) & Samantha (trying to look like an 18-yr old b-girl) in gear from these types of cultures.

    2) Follow up w/ EVERY single hoodie, hoop earring, bangle, velour tracksuit & pair of baggy jeans that ever sailed down the catwalk.

    3) Then you can round it out with Betsey Johnson’s chola-inspired creations.

    I must say, it is truly ironic (& frankly ridiculous) how a member of such a pretentious, self-absorbed, materialistic industry based entirely on conspicuous consumption - that functions solely to make a profit by criticizing one’s garments and dictating what one should wear - that has one of its core components in THIS country can wonder why any poor person would be concerned with how they look?

    On education & food…..

    I grew up in a virtually white upper middle class environment. My parents were/are not big SPENDERS & put their money aside to send their daughters to the colleges (private) of their choice. The other [white] families spent money on Benzes (for the kids of course) & the Vineyard. Their kids went to state schools b/c they had too. What about that type of culture.

    Do you really, honestly believe that parents would say fuck Enfamil, let’s get some Air Force Ones?

    Finally, I hate to do this……I believe Carrie’s $ issue came up when her apt went condo. She had all of those designer shoes, but couldn’t make the down payment. Her rich friend gave up her engagement ring so she could pay it. Now if that ain’t a handout I don’t know what is. How many people w/ adjustable rate mortgages do you think have LV bags or burberry raincoats?

    Go back & read C’s comments carefully.

    You can’t make vitriolic racist (& classist) comments and expect a hat in hand response.

  10. Adrianna wrote:

    here my reply
    Thank you Ann for your post it was brilliant !! Joelle I know your pain. I live in upsate New York and you can’t find makeup for women of color there, well except for MAC. It’s as if for all other makeup brand we are invisible. I don’t read fashion mag because i now tha most of them are geared towards white women, Cause everyone knows that only white women care about fasion. I’ve been call exotic and i hate it. what makes me different from other women? my color? we live in a society that is colorstruck.That is why you have colorism in community of color because being white is advertised as being beautiful, powerful and succesful

  11. Phil wrote:

    I’ve replied to this on my site: http://millionairesocialite.com/?p=232

    Basically, it’s not about white women oppressing black women, but men oppressing *all* women and markets allowing women to oppress themselves.

  12. Ann wrote:

    Mixed Media Watch.

    Okay, I read your post on Almost Girl’s blog, and I left a comment over there.

    Okay, I was not my usual, vitriolic, condescending self.

    I think some people are too inept to face historical facts about America’s mistreatment of black women and all other women of color.

    If you are not a “lily-white” white woman, well, there’s just nothing that you should live for. Or so some people (Almost Girl’s) seem to think.

    Anyway, I will always tell the truth about America.

    I always like to bring a little joy and sunshine into people’s lives.

  13. the joy princess wrote:

    Ann, do you have a blog? I hope so cuz you bring the pain, as the kids (and Chris Rock) used to say!!

  14. Kathleen wrote:

    byam, *some* people just like to stir things up. Controversy builds traffic. A certain party was riling me up a couple of weeks ago by making a feeble attempt at calling into question, the sustainability of my dietary choices (I’m a vegetarian). whatever.

    Btw, not all of fashion is bigoted. For example, it has never occurred to me to mention that my two co bloggers are black and korean respectively -and I do mean korean, not korean american because she’s not a us citizen. The disparities on the glossy side of fashion continually and always amaze me. Am I blind or just stupid? It’s okay, you can say.

  15. Stefanie wrote:

    This is all interesting. I think the fashion indusrty has long been in the habit of capitalizing on “exotic” or “other” looks. Very few people are naturally blonde (platinum blonde, anyway) and in the early days of fashion, I think this was idealized and prized in part because of its exoticism. White models and actesses were often blonde because it stood out as “exotic” though the far away land being referenced then was Scandinavia rather than Asia or Africa as it is today. Then woman at home began dying their hair blonde, emulating the prized models and actresses of their era.

    Now, among white supermodels, there is a trend toward big eyes and small, delicate facial features, recalling the look of a baby, an alien, an elf, or an anime character. Models such as Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, and Devon Aoki (though she is Asian mixed-race, I believe) have this look. Though most of these models are white, their looks are still described as exotic. Their features give them a “look” that most of the rest of us don’t have. The atypical tallness and thinness alone of most models make them look different or “exotic” and that is highly capitalized on.

    Fashion is often about fantasy, not reality. While the label of “exotic” may be hurtful to racially non-white women, I guess the industry doesn’t see how it can benefit from having the attitude of, “Look at these women, they look like everyone else! Kimora looks so common in this evening gown that we have designed.” There is a premium on “standing out” even if one’s phenotypes are exploited to do so…

  16. Merq wrote:

    Stefanie,

    Well-put. Your point was far better phrased and expressed than Julie’s. It actually makes sense.

  17. bertie wrote:

    it always funny to me when folks try to “change the subject” on racial discussions by injecting class–without at least acknowledging that just 40 years ago there were laws on the books throughout the US making people of color a legal/defacto second class. The two were linked for hundreds of years — its going to take more than 40 years to unlink the two.

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